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Post by afilter on Oct 22, 2010 9:17:12 GMT -5
All,
I have received a very fair offer for the Painted USN ships. My plan is to accept this offer on Sunday evening and place the remainder on E-bay if I do not get any other offers.
Priority goes to someone who wants the entire lot which I am currently willing to accept $125 + shipping for everything.
Otherwise if someone else wants everything but the painted USN Ships I will accept $90 +shipping.
I will still entertain other offers with priority going to someone taking the entire lot. If you are making an offer that does not include the entire lot the USN painted ships are spoken for.
Like I stated in the original message not looking to make a profit, just move these along to a good home.
Thanks for looking!
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Post by afilter on Oct 22, 2010 7:49:32 GMT -5
For those of us who are not really knowledgeable about WWII, just what is "Plan Orange"? -- Jeff The actual Plan Orange was the proposed U.S. war plan for war against Japan. The USN had developed a serries of War Plans post WWI to war game and plan for potential war with many nations. some were more serious than other. Plan Orange-Japan Plan Black-Germany Plan Gold-France Plan Red-Britain Plan Scarlet-Canada Avalanche Press came out with a serries of WWI/WWII games based on these plans. Plan Orange was one of the more popular ones and is Out of Print. If you are interested in very historically based what if and real battle games I encourage you to check out the entire naval wargame serries by Avalanche press. www.avalanchepress.com/Great scenarios and awesome maps. HTH,
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Post by afilter on Oct 21, 2010 23:36:02 GMT -5
All, These are again avialble for sale. The buyer who made the original offer has not responded to any of my PMs in the last week accepting the offer, so I will assume he is no longer interested. Here is another pic to help guage the quality of the minis that are painted(USS New York, USS Maryland, USS Arizona, USS Nevada): Feel free to make an offer. All reasonable offers will be considered as I can use the funds to support my future gaming. TIA,
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Post by afilter on Oct 21, 2010 13:46:07 GMT -5
Well and not at all now apparently. We had a death in the extended family last night and I will be at a funeral on Saturday instead of at Rock Con. Very sorry to hear that....wish the best for you and your family. Look forward to meeting you at some point.
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Post by afilter on Oct 21, 2010 8:19:28 GMT -5
Thanks for pointing this out.
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 21:52:25 GMT -5
Shigure,
Plan Orange is one of the few I do not have....just wondering if it has any OoB or scenario ideas?
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 19:55:54 GMT -5
Anyone have any ideas for OoB? Obviously anything will work since it is a "what if", but historical formations would be even better.
Anyone own a copy of Avlanche press War Plan Orange?
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 15:59:49 GMT -5
We are planning on being there to run some Colonial Battlefleet. Cool...It appears you are on the schedule for Saturday..Are you going to be there Friday as well? Would love to meet in person, but not sure I can make it Saturday due to family commitments.
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 14:47:49 GMT -5
Kind of late notice if you are not doing anything I have heard good things about this event. www.rock-con.com/A couple of Naval Thunder events are planned. I played with the guys running the event a couple weeks ago at NAVCON. The Yellow Sea scenario will have the 1/1000 Houston Minis. I am going to try and make Friday night for some WWII action.
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Scale ?
Oct 20, 2010 12:56:15 GMT -5
Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 12:56:15 GMT -5
Yeah, although I actually encourage doing a modification to the scale for pre-dreadnought era because the ranges were baselined for WWI and are much shorter on the tabletop as a result when playing the pre-dreads. The standard house rule I suggest is just take all range measurements and divide by 2 to get the "actual" range. Not sure I am tracking. Are you saying to double the ranges for pre-dreads? Making the scale 1"=250yrds or 1" =1000yrds Mikasa card for example has 12 in gun long range of 30" so should it be 60" on the table or 15"?
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 12:41:30 GMT -5
This is a scenario I have wanted to play/develop for along time based on the IJN "Kantai Kessen" war plan had Pearl Harbor not happened. With the NT rules I think it would be very playable.
Situation:
April 12, 1942 – Address of Admiral Nagumo to officers of the First Strike Force, on the eve of battle “I know many of you have privately questioned Admiral Yamamoto’s daring gambit. Giving up the element of surprise and declining the opportunity to launch a preemptory attack was contrary to the doctrines we have followed since the Battle of Port Arthur in 1904, and counter to the instincts of many of us. But Yamamoto understands the United States, and he has argued persuasively against unnecessarily provoking the American people. So instead of striking, we issued the Articles of Blockade on December 7, 1941. In them, as you know, the War Cabinet declared our intention to blockade the Philippine Islands, Guam and Wake Island in response to the U.S. oil embargo. But our diplomats sweetened the ultimatum with soothing words – stressing the regret with which we took this action, our desire to avert war and rebuild relations with the U.S., our recognition of U.S. interests in the Western Hemisphere, and our hope that our Axis partners would refrain from conflict with America. Of course, the U.S. government declared our blockade illegal and announced their intent to challenge it. But we also know from their “free press” that there is widespread dissension in America as to the wisdom of courting war with us to defend China and Indo-China. As Yamamoto predicted, the U.S. Pacific Fleet has gathered and sortied to try to break our blockade, either through intimidation or force. Clearly they are ill-prepared for the conflict ahead. Their doctrines for the use of concentrated naval airpower are inferior to ours and we expect to have mastery of the skies. And they have not developed the logistical train necessary to sustain operations in the Pacific if we can deny them use of their base at Manila. Now it is time for Kantai Kessen – the decisive battle. We hope to provoke the U.S. into firing the first shot, but even if they don’t we are ready to take measures in our own hands – in the heat of battle it will be easy to blame America for aggression. Regardless we will use our submarines and airpower to weaken the Americans, and then sweep up the survivors with masterful torpedo attacks and the unstoppable power of our battleships. With their navy in ruins, blood on their own hands, and dissension among their citizens, America will long for peace. We will be in a position to dictate settlement terms which assure us our rightful place of leadership throughout East Asia and our rightful status as a leading world power.”
Just need your thoughts on the OoB and any scenario specific rules.
Should Air and Subs be part of the scenario or left out?
This could be one massive engagement or broken down into several smaller actions ending with a Battleship brawl.
The IJN plan basically involved wearing the USN fleet down as it made it's way through the Mariannas with land based air, subs, and night torpedo attacks and then destroy the diminished USN fleet with the big guns of the IJN Battle line. All the Air, and subs could be fought out with the NT rules or casualties could be pre-determined as part of each scenario OoB to keep it simple.
Thoughts?
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Scale ?
Oct 20, 2010 10:57:49 GMT -5
Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 10:57:49 GMT -5
Exactly right. Turns are about 4 to 5 minutes. Thanks...forgot to ask about time. I will assume this holds true for all periods then as well.
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Scale ?
Oct 20, 2010 10:14:29 GMT -5
Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 10:14:29 GMT -5
What is the scale in NT? Is it different for the different eras or consistent throughout all periods?
I realize the ships are not to scale even at 1/6000, but I could not find it in the rules anywhere.
Basically I am wondering what 1" represents on the playing surface in terms of movement and ranges.
My guess is 1" = about 500yrds.
TIA,
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 10:04:23 GMT -5
Guys Go to your member profile and enter your location, it will then show up under your user info on each post and everyone will know where you are! Ken Yeah, but that is not as fun. This way it is all in one location for those that are interested in finding a game.
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 9:00:22 GMT -5
Yes, some look pretty good, it is hit and miss probably as a result the molding process as previously stated. I am very happy with the UK and German Cruisers and Battlecruisers I own which did not have alot of mast anyway.
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 8:35:07 GMT -5
This idea has worked well in another forum where I am a member, so I thought we could try it here if no one objects.
If interested simply post State/country and city. Every so often I will update the list in this post so that players can possibly find others in their area via PM. I have met other players in my area this way. I think most gamers are willing to drive a little ways for a good game.
Also, if you know of a CON it is a nice way to let others in commuting distance know.
USA:
Connecticut fastgit-Central Connecticut(Middle of no where)
Georgia nisk-Atlanta, GA BattleshipOverkill-Athens,GA
Illinois Shigure - Peoria (Central Illinois) meesch56-La Moile (Mendota area)
Pennsylvania navigator37- (Just North of Philly)
Wisconsin afilter-Janesville (South central WI) mmathews-Appleton(Eastern WI)
Wyoming warchariot-really the middle of no where
CANADA:
British Columbia Bluebear-Comox Valley on Vancouver Island
NEW ZEALAND fluorophil-I am 10 minutes from central Auckland.
SCOTLAND, UK wilf12358-Aberdeen
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Post by afilter on Oct 20, 2010 8:24:36 GMT -5
That is what I figured. So far I only own 4 GHQ capital ships for WWI. Using my WoTC models for WWII. PS models are what they are. I am OK with the turrets, using a wash and dry brushing they paint up pretty nice. Some of the capital ships just seem a bit naked without cage/tripod masts is all. You can tell what they are by the gun arrangements, but I just prefer a bit more detail which is why I went with GHQ for my USN BBs and may do the same for some other capital ships as time goes on. Don't plna to model entire fleets just cetain smaller scenarios and possibly some what if actions. Jutland is not in the budget. Once my Russ-Japanese fleets arrive I am going to give it a try the mods a try as those masts seem pretty simple. I will post some before and after pics for your opinions compared to the Houston models.
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Post by afilter on Oct 19, 2010 23:11:50 GMT -5
OK, so I have to ask where are you getting the GHQ Turrets?
I know each model comes with a couple extra, but you still have to buy the models. It is not the turret detail I take issue with so much as lack of superstructure.
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Post by afilter on Oct 19, 2010 20:56:33 GMT -5
afilter, I've not tried it myself, but there is a pretty good description on what and how to do it on the WTJ website. Go to the link below; under "Information Links" (main column), find the "Historical Naval Miniatures" heading; under it one of the subjects is "Installing Masts" . . . click on that: www.wtj.com/store/The information is for their 1/3000 ships, but it shouldn't be any different for 1/2400 vessels. -- Jeff Perfect...that is exactly what I was thinking except just using styrene.
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Post by afilter on Oct 19, 2010 18:40:51 GMT -5
Has anyone attempted this? I like many of the panzerschiffe models, but some lack certain details like masts. At NAVCON someone brought the 1/1000 Houston models. Very nice, but with a huge price to match. They have a very nice photo gallery which I plan to reference when my PS Russo-Japanese fleet arrives. My thought is to add some of the details to the PS models such as masts using my pin vice drill and styrene. Here is a sample of the Houston model of Mikasa I plan to use as a guide: Russian TZESSAREVITCH: I already have the tools and the material, just wondering if anyone has some suggestions or has attempted this before. TIA,
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